I stood on the dock at Sandusky Harbor Marina (SHM). It was September 1, 2008. LaTasse, our 2000 Island Packet 380, was secure in her slip. Looking good. Not a scratch! We were home. We had done it!
This trip of approximately 1,000 nautical miles (1,250 statute) began on June 11, 2008 when Deb and I left our new Lake Michigan home just south of Kewaunee, Wi and headed south and east by car approximately 500 miles to Lake Erie's Sandusky Bay. The summer-long trip, our first, had been a dream of ours for many years. The entire trip would take us down the southern coast of Lake Erie to Buffalo, NY, then down the Welland Canal and into Lake Ontario. We'd circumnavigate Lake Ontario and eventually return traveling up the Welland and back to Sandusky.
We'd spent considerable time in the Spring of 2008 readying LaTasse for the trip. She was a "new" boat for us having been purchased in the Fall of 2007 and then trucked to Lake Erie. LaTasse spent the first eight years of her life in salt water on the Chesapeake Bay with periodic trips to the Bahama's and back. We put her in lake Erie's fresh waters on May 8th. No salt! We knew she'd love it. My brother Steve and I had spent six difficult and challenging days recommissioning in early May. It was a mistake not being there in the Fall of 2007 when she was prepared for the over-the-road transit. So much about this wonderful boat was new and different!
Deb and I arrived Sandusky about 4:30 pm on June 11. We still had work to do to make our planned departure on Saturday, the 14th. We provisioned, bought a TV (a Deb "requirement!") and got Stanley, our dingy, in her davits for the first time. We also replaced a faulty pressure release valve on the hot water heater but I'm not even going there....
Saturday June 14th started off overcast and cool but, as predicted, by noon the skies were clearing and the temperature was warming. Andrew and Emily (son and daughter-in-law) had arrived the night before as they were transiting with us on the first leg to Vermillion, Ohio and Chez Francois. Our kids seldom turn down a great meal, even if it means they have to go sailing to get it! At 1:00 pm, on schedule, June 14th, Deb slowly backed LaTasse out of her slip at SHM and into the marina fairway. We would not see those docks again until September 1, more than 11 weeks later.
Lake Erie's South Shore
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Sandusky Harbor Marina, Sandusky June 11-13 & Sept 1-3
Vermillion Yacht Club, Vermillion, June 14-15
Lakeside Yacht Club, Cleveland, June 16
Grand River Marine, Fairport Harbor, June 17-18
Astabula Yacht Club, Astabula, June 19 & August 26
Presque Isle Yacht Club, Erie, PA, June 20-23 & August 25
Chadwick Bay Marina, Dunkirk, NY, June 24 & August 24
Geneva State Park Marina, Geneva on the Lake, OH, August 27-28
Mentor Harbor Yachting Club, Mentor, Ohio, August 29
Edgewater Yacht Club, Cleveland, August 30
Spitzer's Lakeside Marina, Lorain, OH August 31
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The trip along Lake Erie's south shore from Sandusky to Buffalo, NY is approximately 235 nautical miles. We made the passage twice on this trip, both downbound and upbound. Along the way we would visit 11 different marinas/yacht clubs. The trip down to Buffalo took 13 days (June 14 - June 26). The trip back to Sandusky took just 9 days (August 24 - September 1).
On previous trips, we had traveled as far downbound as Ashtabula, Oh., about half the distance to Buffalo. Beyond Ashtabula, the ports and the navigation were all new to us.
Lake Erie's south shore is easy to navigate. Except for Avon Point, just north and west of Cleveland, and Presque Isle (Erie, Pa), navigation is nearly port-to-port. The harbors are well marked. Many are commercial harbors and have wonderful lighthouses and significant breakwall structures. That said, except for Vermillion, Oh, re-provisioning can be a challenge along this coast. We were fortunate to have our fold-up bikes on this leg of the trip!
Fairport Harbor is a favorite of ours along this coast. It's an industrial harbor to be sure (ships loading salt on the freshwater seas...), but they've done a nice job of making changes that entice cruisers. We particularly enjoy the two restaurants on the west side of Grand River, Pickle Bill's and Brennan's Fish House. Fairport is also the home of Tartan and C&C sailboats. They invite you to tour the factory and learn about these high quality boats. We stayed an extra day in Fairport. Not because it was planned but because the Algo Soo had the river blocked with her self unloading rig! This was not the last time we would see or hear about her on this trip...
We loved Erie, Pa and would recommend it as a port-of-call to anyone cruising this part of Lake Erie. We stayed at the Presque Isle Yacht Club both out and back. You won't find friendlier and more accommodating people anywhere. They love their club and are anxious to have you love it as well. We explored the town and the Presque Isle bay waterfront on our bikes. The Erie Maritime Museum is a must. You may even get to see the brig Niagara if she is in port. We had an even better treat meeting her as we left the harbor on June 24 and headed for Dunkirk, NY.
This trip of approximately 1,000 nautical miles (1,250 statute) began on June 11, 2008 when Deb and I left our new Lake Michigan home just south of Kewaunee, Wi and headed south and east by car approximately 500 miles to Lake Erie's Sandusky Bay. The summer-long trip, our first, had been a dream of ours for many years. The entire trip would take us down the southern coast of Lake Erie to Buffalo, NY, then down the Welland Canal and into Lake Ontario. We'd circumnavigate Lake Ontario and eventually return traveling up the Welland and back to Sandusky.
We'd spent considerable time in the Spring of 2008 readying LaTasse for the trip. She was a "new" boat for us having been purchased in the Fall of 2007 and then trucked to Lake Erie. LaTasse spent the first eight years of her life in salt water on the Chesapeake Bay with periodic trips to the Bahama's and back. We put her in lake Erie's fresh waters on May 8th. No salt! We knew she'd love it. My brother Steve and I had spent six difficult and challenging days recommissioning in early May. It was a mistake not being there in the Fall of 2007 when she was prepared for the over-the-road transit. So much about this wonderful boat was new and different!
Deb and I arrived Sandusky about 4:30 pm on June 11. We still had work to do to make our planned departure on Saturday, the 14th. We provisioned, bought a TV (a Deb "requirement!") and got Stanley, our dingy, in her davits for the first time. We also replaced a faulty pressure release valve on the hot water heater but I'm not even going there....
Saturday June 14th started off overcast and cool but, as predicted, by noon the skies were clearing and the temperature was warming. Andrew and Emily (son and daughter-in-law) had arrived the night before as they were transiting with us on the first leg to Vermillion, Ohio and Chez Francois. Our kids seldom turn down a great meal, even if it means they have to go sailing to get it! At 1:00 pm, on schedule, June 14th, Deb slowly backed LaTasse out of her slip at SHM and into the marina fairway. We would not see those docks again until September 1, more than 11 weeks later.
Lake Erie's South Shore
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Sandusky Harbor Marina, Sandusky June 11-13 & Sept 1-3
Vermillion Yacht Club, Vermillion, June 14-15
Lakeside Yacht Club, Cleveland, June 16
Grand River Marine, Fairport Harbor, June 17-18
Astabula Yacht Club, Astabula, June 19 & August 26
Presque Isle Yacht Club, Erie, PA, June 20-23 & August 25
Chadwick Bay Marina, Dunkirk, NY, June 24 & August 24
Geneva State Park Marina, Geneva on the Lake, OH, August 27-28
Mentor Harbor Yachting Club, Mentor, Ohio, August 29
Edgewater Yacht Club, Cleveland, August 30
Spitzer's Lakeside Marina, Lorain, OH August 31
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The trip along Lake Erie's south shore from Sandusky to Buffalo, NY is approximately 235 nautical miles. We made the passage twice on this trip, both downbound and upbound. Along the way we would visit 11 different marinas/yacht clubs. The trip down to Buffalo took 13 days (June 14 - June 26). The trip back to Sandusky took just 9 days (August 24 - September 1).
On previous trips, we had traveled as far downbound as Ashtabula, Oh., about half the distance to Buffalo. Beyond Ashtabula, the ports and the navigation were all new to us.
Lake Erie's south shore is easy to navigate. Except for Avon Point, just north and west of Cleveland, and Presque Isle (Erie, Pa), navigation is nearly port-to-port. The harbors are well marked. Many are commercial harbors and have wonderful lighthouses and significant breakwall structures. That said, except for Vermillion, Oh, re-provisioning can be a challenge along this coast. We were fortunate to have our fold-up bikes on this leg of the trip!
Fairport Harbor is a favorite of ours along this coast. It's an industrial harbor to be sure (ships loading salt on the freshwater seas...), but they've done a nice job of making changes that entice cruisers. We particularly enjoy the two restaurants on the west side of Grand River, Pickle Bill's and Brennan's Fish House. Fairport is also the home of Tartan and C&C sailboats. They invite you to tour the factory and learn about these high quality boats. We stayed an extra day in Fairport. Not because it was planned but because the Algo Soo had the river blocked with her self unloading rig! This was not the last time we would see or hear about her on this trip...
We loved Erie, Pa and would recommend it as a port-of-call to anyone cruising this part of Lake Erie. We stayed at the Presque Isle Yacht Club both out and back. You won't find friendlier and more accommodating people anywhere. They love their club and are anxious to have you love it as well. We explored the town and the Presque Isle bay waterfront on our bikes. The Erie Maritime Museum is a must. You may even get to see the brig Niagara if she is in port. We had an even better treat meeting her as we left the harbor on June 24 and headed for Dunkirk, NY.
The coastline changes as you head northeast of Erie, Pa. The mostly flat shoreline begins to give way to the grand ranges of the Allegheny Mountains of Western NY. Quite a site from the water.
The 80 mile stretch from Erie to Buffalo has only one significant harbor, Dunkirk, NY. At best, Dunkirk is a stop-over. The owner of the Chadwick Bay Marina really tries. He's very accommodating and helpful. He just doesn't have much to work with. I could talk about the revival we "attended" while in Dunkirk harbor during the return trip (August 24) but I'd rather leave that story for another time. You really need a cold one to appreciate the story. Make it two!
Buffalo NY and the Niagara Region
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Erie Basin Marina, Buffalo, NY, June 26-28
Sugarloaf Marina, Port Colbourne, Ontario, June 29 & August 20
Port Dalhousie Pier Marina, Port Dalhousie, June 30-July 2 & August 15-19
Niagara on the Lake Sailing Club, NOTL, July 3-6
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We arrived Buffalo's Erie Basin Marina on June 26th. Mostly, we had motor-sailed from Sandusky to Buffalo as the winds were generally light (less than 10 knots) and on our stern. We love big city harbors with their skyscrapers and night lights. Big cities look so different from the cockpit of a sailboat.
This leg of the trip, which includes transiting the Welland, will be a lifelong memory. So much to see and do in this region. So much history: The Erie Canal with its western terminus at Talawanda and the monster locks at Lockport. The Niagara River and its Falls. Old Port Dalhousie. Niagara on the Lake with its flowers, restaurants and charm. And, of course, the Niagara wine country. What's not to like about the Niagara Region?
We particularly enjoyed having our family/friends, Julie and Lee Zebro join us for the trip "down" and our friends/family Paul and Cindy Blase join us on the trip back "up."
The Welland Canal is an engineering marvel. Its seven lift locks and one "guard" lock connect Lakes Erie and Ontario bypassing Niagara Falls. The Welland accommodates a drop of 326 feet over approximately 25 nautical miles. Each of it seven lift locks has a vertical lift of 46 1/2 feet. Those locks are concentrated on the Lake Ontario end of the canal over a distance of about 5 nautical miles. Downbound the Welland is a piece of cake, particularly when the weather is good and the wind is light. Its like draining water from a big bathtub with very little turbulence and little pressure on the boat. Upbound, its another story. Now, you're filling the bathtub (a roughly 900 foot x 80 foot x 50 foot cavity) with millions of gallons of water in just 15 minutes or so. There is considerable turbulence and lots of pressure as the water presses your hull against the lock wall. We did our homework. We protected our boat. We brought on extra crew (both directions). We did fine. Made it without a scratch. Sure, I'd do the Welland again. But, only if I had to!!!
The trip across Lake Ontario from NOTL to Toronto is just 27 nautical miles. In fact, on most days, we could see the Toronto skyline from both Port Dalhousie and NOTL. Despite the short distance, the water was deep; over 400 feet most of the trip. Coming from Lake Erie, the shallowest of the Great lakes, this was a new experience for us.
We stayed for nearly a full week in Toronto. On the Islands which form Toronto's natural harbor, we visited two marinas, Toronto Island Marina and the Royal Canadian Yacht Club. The city is accessible from the Islands by ferry boats which run regularly night and day. We explored the Islands by bike and the city by foot (mostly). Re-provisioning was easy in Toronto as the city-side harbor is loaded with shops and great restaurants. I even made a trip or two (might have been three) to Toronto's West Marine!
The RCYC is remarkable. It's huge with everything from competitive sailing and swimming to tennis and lawn bowling. I suspect they have over 500 sailboats in their extensive marina. On Saturday, July 13, Deb and I got all gussied up and enjoyed a sophisticated dinner in the Club's formal dining room. Jacket, long pants and shoes, no less! What a great way to end a visit to one of our favorite cities.
Confederation Basin, Kingston, July 26-29
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August 10, we were back on board. It was so good to be back. As an added treat we enjoyed dinner with a good friend from Sandusky Yacht Club, Dave Smith. Dave was on his way, via the Oswego canal and the Hudson River, the Atlantic and ports south. I was at peace for the first time in a month. Dad was gone from this world but he was in a much better place. We both looked forward to completing our trip.
The Welland Canal is an engineering marvel. Its seven lift locks and one "guard" lock connect Lakes Erie and Ontario bypassing Niagara Falls. The Welland accommodates a drop of 326 feet over approximately 25 nautical miles. Each of it seven lift locks has a vertical lift of 46 1/2 feet. Those locks are concentrated on the Lake Ontario end of the canal over a distance of about 5 nautical miles. Downbound the Welland is a piece of cake, particularly when the weather is good and the wind is light. Its like draining water from a big bathtub with very little turbulence and little pressure on the boat. Upbound, its another story. Now, you're filling the bathtub (a roughly 900 foot x 80 foot x 50 foot cavity) with millions of gallons of water in just 15 minutes or so. There is considerable turbulence and lots of pressure as the water presses your hull against the lock wall. We did our homework. We protected our boat. We brought on extra crew (both directions). We did fine. Made it without a scratch. Sure, I'd do the Welland again. But, only if I had to!!!
Old Port Dalhousie was our first and last port-of-call on Lake Ontario. I wouldn't have it any other way. Port Dalhousie was the Lake Ontario terminus of the Welland Canal when it first opened in 1829. Despite creation of Port Weller in 1932, three miles to the east, Port Dalhousie retains its old world charm. Port Dalhousie is worth a stop and Port Dalhousie's Pier Marina is an accomodating port.
If you ever get a chance, explore the Niagara wine country, please. We love California, Napa and Sonoma, and we've done a bit in the south of France. But, we can't say enough nice things about the Niagara wine country. over about 2 1/2 days, one on bikes, we visited about a dozen vineyards. Bought wine at most of them; whites and reds. These typically small vineyards don't generally sell wines into the United States. They don't have to. You can, however, order their wines on the www from a Buffalo, NY distributor at http://www.thecuvee.com/. We particularly like the wines from Lailey, Henry of Pelham, Stonechurch, Chateau des Charmes, Rief and Strewn. Experiment a bit. If you love wine, you'll be glad you did.
And, don't miss Niagara on the Lake (NOTL). This charming old town at the mouth of the Niagara River is beaming with history. It was a focal point of the War of 1812 on Lake Ontario. Old Fort Niagara dominates the river mouth on the U.S. side with the English Fort George tucked inland a bit just south of the old city. All are great for sightseeing. Be prepared, however, to spend some money in the shops and restaurents. We did!
If you ever get a chance, explore the Niagara wine country, please. We love California, Napa and Sonoma, and we've done a bit in the south of France. But, we can't say enough nice things about the Niagara wine country. over about 2 1/2 days, one on bikes, we visited about a dozen vineyards. Bought wine at most of them; whites and reds. These typically small vineyards don't generally sell wines into the United States. They don't have to. You can, however, order their wines on the www from a Buffalo, NY distributor at http://www.thecuvee.com/. We particularly like the wines from Lailey, Henry of Pelham, Stonechurch, Chateau des Charmes, Rief and Strewn. Experiment a bit. If you love wine, you'll be glad you did.
And, don't miss Niagara on the Lake (NOTL). This charming old town at the mouth of the Niagara River is beaming with history. It was a focal point of the War of 1812 on Lake Ontario. Old Fort Niagara dominates the river mouth on the U.S. side with the English Fort George tucked inland a bit just south of the old city. All are great for sightseeing. Be prepared, however, to spend some money in the shops and restaurents. We did!
Toronto and Lake Ontario's North Coast
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Toronto Island Marina, Toronto, July 7-9
Royal Canadian Yacht Club, Toronto, July 10-12
Bluffers Park Marina, Bluffers Park, July 13
Port Whitby Marina, Whitby, July 14
Port Whitby Marina, Whitby, July 14
Cobourg Marina, Cobourg, July 15-16
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The trip across Lake Ontario from NOTL to Toronto is just 27 nautical miles. In fact, on most days, we could see the Toronto skyline from both Port Dalhousie and NOTL. Despite the short distance, the water was deep; over 400 feet most of the trip. Coming from Lake Erie, the shallowest of the Great lakes, this was a new experience for us.
We stayed for nearly a full week in Toronto. On the Islands which form Toronto's natural harbor, we visited two marinas, Toronto Island Marina and the Royal Canadian Yacht Club. The city is accessible from the Islands by ferry boats which run regularly night and day. We explored the Islands by bike and the city by foot (mostly). Re-provisioning was easy in Toronto as the city-side harbor is loaded with shops and great restaurants. I even made a trip or two (might have been three) to Toronto's West Marine!
The RCYC is remarkable. It's huge with everything from competitive sailing and swimming to tennis and lawn bowling. I suspect they have over 500 sailboats in their extensive marina. On Saturday, July 13, Deb and I got all gussied up and enjoyed a sophisticated dinner in the Club's formal dining room. Jacket, long pants and shoes, no less! What a great way to end a visit to one of our favorite cities.
Along Lake Ontario's north coast, we visited three additional marinas (Bluffer's Park, Whitby and Cobourg). All are keepers in my view. But, Cobourg is a must. Its old world charm, flowers and modern, friendly and spacious marina reminded us of the best of both NOTL and Leamington, On. We'll always remember Cobourg as the place we cemented a friendship with Susan and Larry Ginsberg. This charming couple has been sailing for years from Toronto. Susan, like Deb, captains their boat. Like me, Larry's along for the ride! We would meet up with the Ginsberg's several more times on this trip.
The Bay of Quinite and the Loyalists!
The Bay of Quinite and the Loyalists!
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Brighton Bridge Wall, Murray Canal, July 17
Meyer's Pier Marina, Belleville, July 18-20
Tip of the Bay Marina, Picton, July 21-23
Loyalist Cove marina, Bath, July 24-25
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The Bay of Quinte, on Lake Ontario's northeast end is hard to describe. Actually, its a bit like Door County, Wi in that it's a land mass surrounded by lake water and connected to the mainland by a canal (ala Sturgeon Bay, Wi). Prince Edward County, like Door County, is a playland, a place where tourists gather. What's not to like about a place with names like Bath, Desronto, Picton Bay, Long Reach, Adolphus Reach and Prince Edward Bay? You can stare at a map of Lake Ontario and actually miss the fact that this "island" is separated from the mainland. We spent eight wonderful days exploring this roughly 65 nautical mile "inside" route. The marinas aren't great in the Bay, particularly at Picton, but the scenery is wonderful. It's peaceful in the Bay of Quinte.
Prince Edward County is "Loyalist" country. Just before, during and after the U.S. Revolutionary War, thousands of colonists migrated to Canada the northeastern end of Lake Ontario. They wanted to remain "loyal" to the King of England. Many businesses and public facilities (highways, for example) still refer to their loyalist history. The town marina in Bath is Loyalist Cove! The Union Jack is the predominant flag flying in "loyalist" country.
The Bay of Quinte, on Lake Ontario's northeast end is hard to describe. Actually, its a bit like Door County, Wi in that it's a land mass surrounded by lake water and connected to the mainland by a canal (ala Sturgeon Bay, Wi). Prince Edward County, like Door County, is a playland, a place where tourists gather. What's not to like about a place with names like Bath, Desronto, Picton Bay, Long Reach, Adolphus Reach and Prince Edward Bay? You can stare at a map of Lake Ontario and actually miss the fact that this "island" is separated from the mainland. We spent eight wonderful days exploring this roughly 65 nautical mile "inside" route. The marinas aren't great in the Bay, particularly at Picton, but the scenery is wonderful. It's peaceful in the Bay of Quinte.
Prince Edward County is "Loyalist" country. Just before, during and after the U.S. Revolutionary War, thousands of colonists migrated to Canada the northeastern end of Lake Ontario. They wanted to remain "loyal" to the King of England. Many businesses and public facilities (highways, for example) still refer to their loyalist history. The town marina in Bath is Loyalist Cove! The Union Jack is the predominant flag flying in "loyalist" country.
Kingston and Sackets Harbor
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Confederation Basin, Kingston, July 26-29
Navy Point Marina, Sackets Harbor, NY, July 30-31
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I'm a history buff. North American history in particular. I think the native American Indians got a raw deal. The so-called "savages" were murdered by those self-righteous Europeans carrying Bibles! All, in the name of God. In the name of God, how could they?
Oh, well, back to the story. You get the picture....
If you love North American history, you've got to visit Lake Ontario's east end! The St Lawrence River was, of course, the path the French took to explore the upper lakes (Huron, Michigan and Superior). Kingston, where the St Lawrence begins, was headquarters for the British navy during the War of 1812 ( read "Lords of the Lake" by Robert Malcomson). It was the capital of Canada until, fearing a U.S. invasion, the Crown moved the capital "inland" to Ottawa in the 1840s. The 125 mile Rideau canal, built to connect the new capital to Lake Ontario and Kingston, is now a major recreational waterway. Our Kingston marina, the Confederation Basin, had over 300 transient slips. They were full, with mostly different boats, every single night. Pre-paid reservations are a must.
I'm a history buff. North American history in particular. I think the native American Indians got a raw deal. The so-called "savages" were murdered by those self-righteous Europeans carrying Bibles! All, in the name of God. In the name of God, how could they?
Oh, well, back to the story. You get the picture....
If you love North American history, you've got to visit Lake Ontario's east end! The St Lawrence River was, of course, the path the French took to explore the upper lakes (Huron, Michigan and Superior). Kingston, where the St Lawrence begins, was headquarters for the British navy during the War of 1812 ( read "Lords of the Lake" by Robert Malcomson). It was the capital of Canada until, fearing a U.S. invasion, the Crown moved the capital "inland" to Ottawa in the 1840s. The 125 mile Rideau canal, built to connect the new capital to Lake Ontario and Kingston, is now a major recreational waterway. Our Kingston marina, the Confederation Basin, had over 300 transient slips. They were full, with mostly different boats, every single night. Pre-paid reservations are a must.
We took a four-hour side trip on July 25th, via cruise boat, down the St Lawrence. The river is wide at Kingston, miles wide. The 1000 Islands region, in the river and about 20 nautical miles northeast of Kingston, is beautiful; even hard to describe. Its no wonder people spend their summers here.
Sackets Harbor, NY, about 40 nautical miles south and east of Kingston, was headquarters for the U.S. Navy during the War of 1812. It was an active naval base until the 1950s. The small, natural harbor is tucked behind Navy Point.
Sackets Harbor, NY, about 40 nautical miles south and east of Kingston, was headquarters for the U.S. Navy during the War of 1812. It was an active naval base until the 1950s. The small, natural harbor is tucked behind Navy Point.
Our trip to Sackets Harbor on July 30th was rough, roughest of the entire summer. The wind, which normally blows from the southwest, was blowing hard from the south, southeast (the direction we bore...). On top of that, we had to fight the current and the waves created by all that water rushing around Wolfe Island to get to the St Lawrence. We were thankful we had La Tasse, our 13 ton Island Packet! Once we cleared the area around Kingston and the St Lawrence River things calmed down and we had an uneventful trip to Sackets Harbor.
Sackets Harbor is a small but very enjoyable port. The people there have worked hard to retain, and display, their history as an important naval base on the Great Lakes. We'll remember Sackets Harbor for two things. First, Deb put us on a short wall between two crowded docks with only inches to spare. No touch, no foul! Even got the pictures to prove it. Second, a great pizza and two bottles of $8/btl wine. It was "$2 Chuck" night at the local establishment!
Sackets Harbor is a small but very enjoyable port. The people there have worked hard to retain, and display, their history as an important naval base on the Great Lakes. We'll remember Sackets Harbor for two things. First, Deb put us on a short wall between two crowded docks with only inches to spare. No touch, no foul! Even got the pictures to prove it. Second, a great pizza and two bottles of $8/btl wine. It was "$2 Chuck" night at the local establishment!
We left Sackets Harbor on August 1. We left knowing that we should have spent more time on Lake Ontario's "eastern end."
Lake Ontario's South Shore
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Oswego Marina, Oswego, August 1
Katlynn Marine, Sodus Bay, August 2
Rochester Yacht Club, August 3-11
Four C's Marina, Point Breeze, August 12
Tuscarora Yacht Club, August 13-14
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The trip from Sackets Harbor to Oswego (approximately 45 nautical miles) was long but uneventful. The first leg of the trip, past Henderson Bay and Stony Point, is quite beautiful. It's what upstate New York ought to look like. Once past Stony Point we were out into the open waters of Mexico Bay. On that roughly 30 nm leg we were 8-10 miles off-shore most of the way. Still, believe it or not, my cell phone worked!
Oswego, NY is an old harbor city; at the mouth of the Oswego River. The river is part of the New York state canal system as its eight locks connect Lake Ontario to the Erie Canal. Lake Erie cruisers traveling to/from the Hudson River typically use the Oswego canal and the Welland in order to by-pass approximately 100 miles of the old Erie Canal. While Oswego Marina was quite adaquate, the town itself is not much more than a stop over.
Sodus Bay, on the other hand, is a keeper. A real keeper. The Bay itself deserves several days. The marina we used, Katlynn Marine, was one of the very best of the entire trip. The 30 nm passage from Oswego to Sodus Bay will be remembered as the only storm-sail of the summer. After missing several storms during July (Toronto's wettest July ever), our number finally came up. Not a lot of wind but boy did it rain! We were thankful for the dodger and biminy.
We sailed into the Genesee River and Rochester, NY on August 3, a Sunday. We had to wait a bit at the Rochester Yacht Club fuel dock as approximately 30 boats from the sailing club made their way back into the harbor. Our dock, which was to be La Tasse's "home" for a week, was hard to find and difficult to enter. But, after a bit of a struggle with the helm and some much appreciated help, Deb had us in the slip and secure. We got things ship-shape, called a cab, and headed for the airport in order to be with my Dad during his final days.
August 10, we were back on board. It was so good to be back. As an added treat we enjoyed dinner with a good friend from Sandusky Yacht Club, Dave Smith. Dave was on his way, via the Oswego canal and the Hudson River, the Atlantic and ports south. I was at peace for the first time in a month. Dad was gone from this world but he was in a much better place. We both looked forward to completing our trip.
We visited two additional harbors on the way back to Port Dalhousie, Point Breeze and Wilson. Both were surprisingly wonderful. In Wilson, we stayed at the Tuscarora Yacht Club which was situated on a small island in the Tuscarora River. Wilson is a small river town but there's lot to do in the harbor. Wilson was a fitting "last harbor" on our circumnavigation of Lake Ontario.
A Tribute to Hubert Boehm, my Father
Hubert L Boehm lived a wonderful, full life. He passed away August 6, 2008 at approximately 7:30 am. He was 86.
Dad's health had not been good for a couple of years. He was not good when Deb and I saw him in late May 2008. He had bounced back before. He would do it again. We were especially encouraged when he was allowed to leave the nursing home in late June and return to his apartment with Mom at the Renaissance Center . We hoped for the best.
While we were in the Bay of Quinte things began to deteriorate quickly for Dad. Even then, it seemed he would last the summer. At least, I hoped he would as one has limited mobility when traveling aboard a sailboat 1,000 miles from home. We shortened the trip and began to work our way toward Rochester, NY and an airport. By the time we were in Sackets Harbor, it was obvious that the end was near.
We decided to sail the remaining 100 nautical miles to Rochester in three days without regard to the weather. For Deb and me, that's pushing it. Thankfully, the weather cooperated, mostly. We made it home before Dad passed. I was there when he took his last breath. What a wonderful gift.
Hubert Boehm gave me a lot. He loved me. That's big these days. He gave me a work ethic and the determination to do whatever it took to be successful. He showed me that it was okay for men to be emotional, even cry (we Boehm men do that a lot!). He demonstrated that a formal education was a luxury; that intelligence and common sense are gifts from God.
I miss my Dad, of course. But, Hubert Boehm is now in a better place where he can watch over his "sailor" of a son. God speed. Fair winds.
